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Panettone Foolish Poolish Bakes

Valutazione: 8 voti, 5.00 media.
December 29, 2008


Filed under: Bread, Enriched, Recipes, Sourdough, Sweet — foolishpoolish @ 3:09 am
Tags: BBD15, Bread, Bread Baking Day #15, Festive, Italian, Panettone, Sourdough, Sweet, YeastSpotting

Well here it is! It comes too late for christmas 2008, but I finally did it! I won’t bore you with the details of the past four months, suffice to say that the many ups and downs have taken me to a point where I can finally share a panettone recipe with you. Yay!

The initial motivation and inspiration behind my panettone project came from the fantastic looking results blogged by Susan at Wild Yeast. Before I saw that post, I would never have dreamed it was possible to produce panettone at home. The recipe below draws from the SFBI-inspired Wild Yeast recipe (especially the glaze), a recipe adapted from the book Cresci, and also a Simili sisters recipe (courtesy of the great Küchenlatein). In keeping with panettone tradition, the recipe here uses natural yeast as the only leavening.
While ingredients are very similar between the various recipes, technique is the key to eventual success. Most sane people would use a stand mixer and if you have one, I strongly recommend taking advantage of it! However, my lack of said equipment forced me to come up with a method by which I could mix the panettone dough by hand. While it may seem rather long winded and taxing on the forearm muscles, the method outlined below has been developed primarily with the purpose of preserving the delicate dough structure through the various stages of building the dough without the need for a stand mixer.

As detailed in the Wild Yeast recipe, crucial to a succesful panettone is the cultivation of an active, mild, stiff sourdough starter – an ‘italian’ sweet starter. If your storage starter is kept at higher hydrations, you will need to first convert a portion of it to a stiff ‘Pasta Madre’ (italian storage starter). Traditionally this starter is wrapped tightly in muslin. When mature, the starter is unwrapped, the outer layer is peeled away with a knife and the inside dough is used to refresh the starter and make bread. It is not necessary to go to such lengths to achieve a good result and a simple conversion (using less water) will suffice. It is important, however, to feed this converted starter at least 3 times at regular intervals (4 hours) before it is ready to mix into the ‘first dough’. The flour I used was a combination of high gluten, canadian hard wheat flour (for dough strength) and a 11% protein, italian 00 flour (for finer crumb). The last thing to note is the use of skewers, which are used to suspend the inverted panettone. This is done to prevent the very delicate panettone from collapsing on itself (which can happen if left to cool upright).

Well, what can I say? I’m pleased that I finally got a decent result! The crumb is achingly tender and the texture is delicate and ’shaggy’. Unlike store-bought panettone which may have been sitting on shelves for a month or more, the freshly baked panettone tastes nutty, buttery and ‘fresh’. The texture is more luxurious and moist than it’s typically staler, drier store equivalents. I forgot to put in the honey in this most recent panettone session, but I can’t say the omission impacted on the flavour all that much. Normally, honey (or glucose syrup) is added to extend shelf life. The ratio of butter and sugar to flour was pretty much spot-on (for my taste) but you could probably increase the butter by 50g or so, if you wanted an uberdecadent brioche-like panettone. Have fun with this recipe and don’t be discouraged if doesn’t turn out perfect the first time (it took me 4 months!)
Happy baking!
Time: 2 days (first day for preparing starter and mixing first dough, second day for the final dough and baking)
Makes: 2 large panettone (~800g)

  • 50g storage starter (100% hydration)
  • 300g canadian flour (15% protein) + ~350g for preparing sweet starter
  • 300g 00 flour (11% protein)
  • 250-300g water + ~160g for preparing sweet starter
  • 300g mixed dried fruit (sultanas, raisins, candied citrus peel, cherries etc.)
  • 300g caster sugar
  • 250g butter
  • 200g starter
  • 6 large egg yolks (~130g)
  • 25g honey
  • 12g salt
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract
*depending on the number of feedings. I recommend at least 3

  • 50g granulated sugar
  • 1 egg white (about 30g)
  • 1 tsp ground almonds
  • 1 tsp cornstarch
  • 1 tsp cocoa powder
  • 1/2 tsp oil
Mix all ingredients together well. Gently apply glaze to the surface of the panettone before dusting with icing sugar and decorating with blanched almonds, pearl sugar etc.

  • 50g storage starter (I’m assuming 100% hydration)
  • 350g canadian hard wheat flour
  • 160g water
  1. ‘Convert’ your storage starter by mixing 50g storage starter, 50g flour and 10g water.
  2. Adjust the water depending on the hydration of your storage starter. You are looking for a pretty stiff consistency.
  3. Proof for 4 hours in a warm place (85F recommended).
  4. Once proofed, take 100g of the converted starter to incorporate into the next dough: 100g starter, 100g flour, 50g water.
  5. Refresh the starter, using the same flour/water/starter proportions every four hours (at least two more times).
  6. This should leave you with 250g sweet starter, enough for mixing the first dough and 50g spare for other recipes or maintaining a pasta madre

First Dough
  • 200g sweet starter
  • 200g canadian hard wheat flour
  • 200g 00 flour
  • 200g sugar
  • 175g water
  • 125g butter
  • 4 large egg yolks (~90g)
  1. Mix the flour, egg yolks and water into a smooth dough and leave it to rest for 20 minutes.
  2. Knead in the sweet starter until smooth again.
  3. Knead in the sugar, 1 tsp at a time. You may find switching to beating with a spoon easier towards the end.
  4. Incorporate the butter, 1 tbsp at a time. A combination of beating and folding may be needed.
  5. Proof overnight in a warm place (80-85F) until more than doubled in size (8-12 hours).

Final Dough
  • All of first dough
  • 300g dried fruit
  • 100g canadian hard wheat flour
  • 100g 00 flour
  • 125g butter
  • 100g water
  • 75g sugar
  • 25g honey
  • 2 large egg yolks (~40g)
  • 12g salt
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract
  1. Mix the flour, egg yolks and water into a smooth dough and leave it to rest for 20 minutes.
  2. Knead in the sugar, 1 tsp at a time. You may find switching to beating with a spoon easier towards the end. Rest for another 20 minutes.
  3. Incorporating all of the first dough. Knead well at this point to make sure gluten is well developed and that the final dough is homogenous. Rest for a further 20 minutes.
  4. Incorporate the butter, 1 tbsp at a time. A combination of beating and folding may be needed.
  5. Once all the butter is incorporated, continue to work the dough until gluten is fully developed (passes windowpane test).
  6. Fold in the honey.
  7. Incorporate dried fruit. For minimum impact on gluten, I recommend ‘folding in’ the fruit in by laying the dough out on a floured work surface and sprinkling the fruit (about 50g at a time) over half the exposed area and folding the other half over to seal. Give the dough a quarter turn, roll out the dough to roughly the same size and repeat until all the fruit is incorporated.
  8. Divide the dough into two portions.
  9. Losely shape each portion into a boule
  10. Allow dough balls to rest for 20 minutes
  11. Tighten the dough shapes (bringing dough from the sides underneath the boule while rotating it) before placing in already-skewered panettone moulds.
  12. Proof for a further 8-12 hours or until tripled in size.
  13. Score an ‘X’ on the top and tuck strands of butter in the cuts. Alternatively, decorate with the glaze detailed earlier.
  14. Bake at 350F for 45-50 minutes (until internal temperature reaches 185F). If the top browns before baking has finished then loosely cover the top with foil.
  15. Invert the panettone and hang to cool for at least 7 hours and preferably overnight. #gallery-1 { margin: auto; } #gallery-1 .gallery-item { float: left; margin-top: 10px; text-align: center; width: 25%; } #gallery-1 img { border: 2px solid #cfcfcf; } #gallery-1 .gallery-caption { margin-left: 0; }

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